Everything You Need to Know About Countertop Profiles
A Houzz kitchen guru explains how getting the countertop look you want is about more than just materials
When people start making the decisions about countertops in their kitchen, they are often just thinking about materials. Should they use high-pressure laminate, or one of the many variations on stones and granites? Or what about all the acrylic and composite materials on offer? Or the old perennial, stainless steel?
That’s only the start of the decision-making process though. With every countertop, you then need to select finishes, sizes, the fit of the sink, and more. One of the most overlooked areas is the countertop edge. The profile options available to you vary depending on the countertop material you choose, and each profile has its limitations. Let’s look at the options that are possible for each type of countertop.
That’s only the start of the decision-making process though. With every countertop, you then need to select finishes, sizes, the fit of the sink, and more. One of the most overlooked areas is the countertop edge. The profile options available to you vary depending on the countertop material you choose, and each profile has its limitations. Let’s look at the options that are possible for each type of countertop.
Square edge
A square-edge profile is exactly as it sounds; it’s made by simply laminating the front edge of the countertop. This is done on all visible edges in the kitchen plan, and makes a laminate countertop look more modern. In some cases, depending on the laminate brand, there is a noticeable black line around the edge where the laminate surfaces join. If you want to minimise this look, then avoid specifying a lighter-coloured top. There are a few options out in the market, such as Formica’s ColourCore, where the laminate is true in colour throughout the thickness of the material and the black line is eliminated.
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A square-edge profile is exactly as it sounds; it’s made by simply laminating the front edge of the countertop. This is done on all visible edges in the kitchen plan, and makes a laminate countertop look more modern. In some cases, depending on the laminate brand, there is a noticeable black line around the edge where the laminate surfaces join. If you want to minimise this look, then avoid specifying a lighter-coloured top. There are a few options out in the market, such as Formica’s ColourCore, where the laminate is true in colour throughout the thickness of the material and the black line is eliminated.
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The square edge can be used to create a stylish detail at the end of the counter, when you carry the countertop material over the sides. Here, a negative detail echoes the charcoal of the cupboard doors, and the island is finished with a waterfall (also called a box leg).
Kitchen dilemma: timber, veneer or laminate?
Kitchen dilemma: timber, veneer or laminate?
Laminate square-edge countertops can be built up to give a counter more heft. I have seen this done generally to 100 millimetres in built-up height. Be aware that most laminate brand’s sheet lengths are 3600 millimetre, so for longer than this you will have a join in the middle of the countertop.
D-rolls
A 10-millimetre D-roll (also called a flat freeform) countertop is made by rolling the front edge on the countertop over the face edge, and then repeating the same on the underside of the top so you get a 10-millimetre radius on either side, with a flat edge section in between. The flat section can be varied in height depending on the overall thickness you want for the counter.
By rolling the top and bottom edges, you eliminate a join in the laminate, and the black line on the face edge that you would get on a square. This is the go-to option to get a modern look without a join in the laminate.
A tightform or 7-millimetre D-roll is exactly the same as a 10-millimetre D-roll top, just with a smaller radius. However, the difference is that only a few laminates can be post-formed to such a tight radius, so before selecting this option, do your research to find out if the colour you have chosen is available in a tightform laminate.
A 10-millimetre D-roll (also called a flat freeform) countertop is made by rolling the front edge on the countertop over the face edge, and then repeating the same on the underside of the top so you get a 10-millimetre radius on either side, with a flat edge section in between. The flat section can be varied in height depending on the overall thickness you want for the counter.
By rolling the top and bottom edges, you eliminate a join in the laminate, and the black line on the face edge that you would get on a square. This is the go-to option to get a modern look without a join in the laminate.
A tightform or 7-millimetre D-roll is exactly the same as a 10-millimetre D-roll top, just with a smaller radius. However, the difference is that only a few laminates can be post-formed to such a tight radius, so before selecting this option, do your research to find out if the colour you have chosen is available in a tightform laminate.
Bullnose
A bullnose edge is the more traditional edge profile for laminate countertops. It is essentially the same as a 10-millimetre radius profile, but instead of merging from a curved radius to a flat section it simply continues in a complete half circle to give a round-edge profile. It is more commonly done in 30-millimetre-thick laminate countertops. Once again, its appeal is that there is no black line on the face edge.
A bullnose edge is the more traditional edge profile for laminate countertops. It is essentially the same as a 10-millimetre radius profile, but instead of merging from a curved radius to a flat section it simply continues in a complete half circle to give a round-edge profile. It is more commonly done in 30-millimetre-thick laminate countertops. Once again, its appeal is that there is no black line on the face edge.
Acrylic edge
In the past two years, a new take on the square-edge profile has emerged. In the same way that we’ve made improvements in edging kitchen fronts, countertop fabricators are now offering a solid acrylic edge, which gives a robust and higher-performing edge option for a square profile on a laminate countertop.
In the past two years, a new take on the square-edge profile has emerged. In the same way that we’ve made improvements in edging kitchen fronts, countertop fabricators are now offering a solid acrylic edge, which gives a robust and higher-performing edge option for a square profile on a laminate countertop.
Stone
The most common edge profiles in stone countertops are a square edge (with a 3- to 4-millimetre radius) or a full bevel (also called a shark nose, shown here).
Square edge
The square edge in stone is virtually the same as in laminate countertops, made by putting a small radius on the edge of the countertop to provide a more modern look and to prevent sharp corners or counter edge chip-out. Generally manufacturers use a standard 3- to 4-millimetre radius.
This edge is done on all visible edges in the kitchen plan and is the most cost effective.
The most common edge profiles in stone countertops are a square edge (with a 3- to 4-millimetre radius) or a full bevel (also called a shark nose, shown here).
Square edge
The square edge in stone is virtually the same as in laminate countertops, made by putting a small radius on the edge of the countertop to provide a more modern look and to prevent sharp corners or counter edge chip-out. Generally manufacturers use a standard 3- to 4-millimetre radius.
This edge is done on all visible edges in the kitchen plan and is the most cost effective.
Shark nose
A shark nose is more of a design detail than a functional countertop edge profile, and is fitted either as a protruding cut back (from cabinet line) on the edge to become a feature of the countertop, or as a matching detail to the cabinet fronts. It is most commonly added to 20-millimetre substrate.
A shark nose creates a striking look, but do bear in mind that you have only a limited choice of materials to do this on the cabinet front, as the angles cause edging difficulties. Different tooling between manufactures will vary the radius on the front edge of the shark nose.
A shark nose is more of a design detail than a functional countertop edge profile, and is fitted either as a protruding cut back (from cabinet line) on the edge to become a feature of the countertop, or as a matching detail to the cabinet fronts. It is most commonly added to 20-millimetre substrate.
A shark nose creates a striking look, but do bear in mind that you have only a limited choice of materials to do this on the cabinet front, as the angles cause edging difficulties. Different tooling between manufactures will vary the radius on the front edge of the shark nose.
There are several more standard options with stone, such as a flat-polished edge and a mitred corner shown here. Other profile options depend largely on the availability of the tooling your fabricator has as to whether they can offer these or not. Tooling is very expensive, so fabricators weigh up the likely market or projected sales before they invest in equipment that turns out new looks.
Bring breakfast back with eat-in nooks and tables
Bring breakfast back with eat-in nooks and tables
Acrylic
Acrylic is a substrate you can manipulate in virtually any way you want, so it is almost impossible to list what is and what isn’t popular – or possible. However, it’s important to note that certain applications will void warranties from the manufacturer, so you do need to take your fabricator’s advice.
Acrylic tops and edges can be manipulated to create many different types of edge profiles. As with stone, you can have popular edges such as a small radius, a shark nose profile, a mitred front apron to create the appearance of a thicker acrylic, and the list goes on. Acrylic’s appeal for the manufacturer is that it requires a simpler machining process, with less complex tooling to do these things.
The other advantage with acrylic tops is that when a join is made between sheets, once it is sanded smooth it is completely invisible. It can also be used in fashionably thin profiles such as the countertop shown here, with face edges around 12 millimetres at the thinnest.
Acrylic is a substrate you can manipulate in virtually any way you want, so it is almost impossible to list what is and what isn’t popular – or possible. However, it’s important to note that certain applications will void warranties from the manufacturer, so you do need to take your fabricator’s advice.
Acrylic tops and edges can be manipulated to create many different types of edge profiles. As with stone, you can have popular edges such as a small radius, a shark nose profile, a mitred front apron to create the appearance of a thicker acrylic, and the list goes on. Acrylic’s appeal for the manufacturer is that it requires a simpler machining process, with less complex tooling to do these things.
The other advantage with acrylic tops is that when a join is made between sheets, once it is sanded smooth it is completely invisible. It can also be used in fashionably thin profiles such as the countertop shown here, with face edges around 12 millimetres at the thinnest.
To achieve these ultra-thin profiles, the acrylic is built up on a substrate to meet warranty standards, so it’s the fabricator’s call on what they will or won’t do under the supporting warranties in the various acrylic brands.
You can also create traditional bevelled shapes, such as those shown here, to suit a classical or heritage-style kitchen.
You can also create traditional bevelled shapes, such as those shown here, to suit a classical or heritage-style kitchen.
A flat, polished edge is very similar to a square edge, but with a 3-millimetre flat angled cut rather than a circular radius. Again, the size is dependant on the manufacturer’s tooling, so check that before you specify. A mitred edge is used with a standard solid self-supporting acrylic or stone to build it up to a greater thickness. The base acrylic or stone is generally 19 or 20 millimetres and the face is built up to the desired thickness by making a mitre (angle cut) at the apex of each of the top and face surfaces. At the apex, the radius is generally 3 millimetres (like a square edge) to prevent chipping. Some fabricators will use a different technique, more like a rebated butt joint, to make an acrylic countertop thicker.
Stainless Steel
Much like acrylic countertops, stainless steel has few hard and fast rules. You have quite a few options, from folded to a small radius edge (square edge), an anti-spill edge, as well as a bullnose or a boxed bead in both light and heavy, plus there are various custom applications made for commercial kitchens.
Square edge
A square edge, as shown here, is made by putting a small radius on the edge of the countertop. A fold as tight as 2.5-millimetre radius is the minimum and generally the standard.
Much like acrylic countertops, stainless steel has few hard and fast rules. You have quite a few options, from folded to a small radius edge (square edge), an anti-spill edge, as well as a bullnose or a boxed bead in both light and heavy, plus there are various custom applications made for commercial kitchens.
Square edge
A square edge, as shown here, is made by putting a small radius on the edge of the countertop. A fold as tight as 2.5-millimetre radius is the minimum and generally the standard.
Thin plate
An ultra-modern and very cool option is a laser-cut, very thin plate stainless top. This provides a nice design option when you want a very thin surface, as it gives you all the great benefits of stainless countertops, within a very thin plate top. The results speak for themselves.
See more kitchen designs
An ultra-modern and very cool option is a laser-cut, very thin plate stainless top. This provides a nice design option when you want a very thin surface, as it gives you all the great benefits of stainless countertops, within a very thin plate top. The results speak for themselves.
See more kitchen designs
Anti-spill
An anti-spill edge is, as it sounds, where the stainless countertop is folded back under the top counter line to provide a lip on the counter that prevents liquids flowing over the front edge. This is more about the containment of the liquid than it is about detail, and you’ll have seen it in many an old house with an original stainless sink counter. It is used in commercial and high-use residential applications, as well as a lot of projects such as hospitals that have strict cleaning standards.
An anti-spill edge is, as it sounds, where the stainless countertop is folded back under the top counter line to provide a lip on the counter that prevents liquids flowing over the front edge. This is more about the containment of the liquid than it is about detail, and you’ll have seen it in many an old house with an original stainless sink counter. It is used in commercial and high-use residential applications, as well as a lot of projects such as hospitals that have strict cleaning standards.
Bullnose
In recent years, a bullnose edge detail has become less popular for stainless steel. On rare occasions, a bullnose is combined with an anti-spill edge. Formed the same way as a laminate bullnose edge, these generally come in sizes that range from 32 to 60 millimetres. They may be rare, but they do suit a traditional look such as this country kitchen.
In recent years, a bullnose edge detail has become less popular for stainless steel. On rare occasions, a bullnose is combined with an anti-spill edge. Formed the same way as a laminate bullnose edge, these generally come in sizes that range from 32 to 60 millimetres. They may be rare, but they do suit a traditional look such as this country kitchen.
Stainless countertops can also come with rolled upstands, which function like a backsplash. With no seams or joins between the counter and the wall, again, this makes for no chance of water seepage and is easy to clean.
Concrete
Peter Housiaux’s company Designer Concrete has been making concrete countertops for more than 25 years. In that time, he says technology has improved, with additives to improve the strength and finish of the cement, better diamond gear for grinding and polishing, and different sealers.
Unlike stone, which is cut from a piece, concrete can be custom-formed to any shape or size, so there are no limitations here.
Peter Housiaux’s company Designer Concrete has been making concrete countertops for more than 25 years. In that time, he says technology has improved, with additives to improve the strength and finish of the cement, better diamond gear for grinding and polishing, and different sealers.
Unlike stone, which is cut from a piece, concrete can be custom-formed to any shape or size, so there are no limitations here.
The standard depth for concrete countertops is 50 millimetres, but adding a dropped front creates the appearance of thicker counters up to 200 millimetres. Or the cement mix can be modified to create the super-thin 20-millimetre counter.
Because it is a construction material, concrete counters can be reinforced with steel to create dramatic cantilevers and freestanding shapes. Housiaux says most cabinets today can carry the weight, but you do need to check with your cabinetmaker if you are planning a large countertop.
Because it is a construction material, concrete counters can be reinforced with steel to create dramatic cantilevers and freestanding shapes. Housiaux says most cabinets today can carry the weight, but you do need to check with your cabinetmaker if you are planning a large countertop.
Today, most countertops are fabricated in a factory for better control and finishing, and the concrete can be shaped there to create integrated draining boards or cutting surfaces. If you plan to have your counter made in-situ, Housiaux advises making sure the builder is using a good strong concrete mix, as dense as possible, with strong boxing and plenty of structural steel, and that the surface is polished to a smooth finish.
TELL US
What’s your countertop material and profile of choice? Share your favourites in the Comments.
TELL US
What’s your countertop material and profile of choice? Share your favourites in the Comments.
High-pressure laminate tops are most commonly formed into a square edge, or curved into what we call a D-roll, or a bullnose. There are a few others, but these three are the most common.