The Story Behind Linen and Why It's so Good for Interiors
Crisp linen isn’t just for bedding and clothing – it’s also a great choice for upholstered furniture
Laura Oglethorpe
26 October 2018
Houzz Contributor
If you’re looking for a classic upholstery fabric, you can’t do much better than linen. Made from the fibres of the flax plant, it’s been around for thousands of years and has always been seen as valuable. (Linen was even used as currency in ancient Egypt.) Today, the fabric is still appreciated for its beauty, feel and durability. Whether you’re using it as a casual slipcover or a crisp covering for an antique armchair, here’s all you need to know about linen upholstery.
Linen 101
The process of making linen hasn’t changed much since it was first developed all those years ago. Although the flax plant is relatively easy to grow, the process of turning it into fabric is labour-intensive. And even though textile processing has advanced for most materials, linen yarn still has to be made the old-fashioned way (mostly by hand). To give you an idea of why the best linen costs more than some other fabrics, here’s a little more on how it’s made.
Why you can’t go wrong with white bedlinen
The process of making linen hasn’t changed much since it was first developed all those years ago. Although the flax plant is relatively easy to grow, the process of turning it into fabric is labour-intensive. And even though textile processing has advanced for most materials, linen yarn still has to be made the old-fashioned way (mostly by hand). To give you an idea of why the best linen costs more than some other fabrics, here’s a little more on how it’s made.
Why you can’t go wrong with white bedlinen
Harvesting
The highest-quality linen fibres come from plants that are pulled up with the roots intact, not cut off at soil level. No one has been able to invent a machine that pulls up the stalk with the roots intact, so linen is still harvested by hand.
The highest-quality linen fibres come from plants that are pulled up with the roots intact, not cut off at soil level. No one has been able to invent a machine that pulls up the stalk with the roots intact, so linen is still harvested by hand.
Processing, part 1
Once the stalks have been pulled from the ground, the fibres are separated from the rest of the stalk – another process where machines are no help. To reach the fibres, the rest of the stem must be rotted away. This process, called retting, is accomplished by allowing the stalks to ferment. Retting most commonly involves weighing down the flax and submerging it in a slow-moving or stagnant body of water, like a pond, bog, river or stream. It stays there until the stems rot.
Once the stalks have been pulled from the ground, the fibres are separated from the rest of the stalk – another process where machines are no help. To reach the fibres, the rest of the stem must be rotted away. This process, called retting, is accomplished by allowing the stalks to ferment. Retting most commonly involves weighing down the flax and submerging it in a slow-moving or stagnant body of water, like a pond, bog, river or stream. It stays there until the stems rot.
The retting process is incredibly important to the quality of the final fabric. In fact, that’s one of the reasons why Belgian linen is so legendary. Whatever is in the water of the Lys River there works wonders on the stalks. Flax growers from France, the Netherlands and even South America send their flax to be retted in the Lys. You can get the stalks to rot in other ways, such as spreading the flax in a grassy field, submerging it in large tanks of water or using chemicals, but they create lower-quality fibres.
Processing, part 2
The retted stalks are dried and then passed between rollers that crush any woody stalks that still remain (finally, by machine). To get the remaining bits of wood out, the fibres are scraped by hand with a small wooden knife. This is called scutching, and it yields only about 6.8 kilograms of flax fibres per day per worker. Next, the fibres are combed through a bed of nails (a process called heckling) that removes the shorter fibres, leaving the longer ones. It is these long fibres that are spun into high-quality linen yarn.
The retted stalks are dried and then passed between rollers that crush any woody stalks that still remain (finally, by machine). To get the remaining bits of wood out, the fibres are scraped by hand with a small wooden knife. This is called scutching, and it yields only about 6.8 kilograms of flax fibres per day per worker. Next, the fibres are combed through a bed of nails (a process called heckling) that removes the shorter fibres, leaving the longer ones. It is these long fibres that are spun into high-quality linen yarn.
Where is linen grown?
Belgium, France’s Normandy region and the Netherlands are considered to have the best climates for growing flax, but it can also be grown in places such as Russia and China (though the fibres tend to be of poorer quality than those grown in Europe). One exception to that rule is the high-quality flax grown in the Nile River valley. It benefits from the rich soil found there.
Belgium, France’s Normandy region and the Netherlands are considered to have the best climates for growing flax, but it can also be grown in places such as Russia and China (though the fibres tend to be of poorer quality than those grown in Europe). One exception to that rule is the high-quality flax grown in the Nile River valley. It benefits from the rich soil found there.
Linen weaving
While linen is usually processed close to where the plants are harvested, the yarn can be woven into fabric anywhere. Many believe that the mills of northern Italy produce the best linen, though those in Belgium, Ireland and France also create high-quality products.
While linen is usually processed close to where the plants are harvested, the yarn can be woven into fabric anywhere. Many believe that the mills of northern Italy produce the best linen, though those in Belgium, Ireland and France also create high-quality products.
Eco-friendliness
Linen has a reputation for being eco-friendly, and it’s well deserved. Flax is easy to grow without fertiliser or irrigation and it’s naturally resistant to diseases and insects, requiring little use of chemicals. (Compare this to cotton, which uses seven times more chemicals than linen.) Flax uses one-quarter the water that cotton does during processing and produces little waste, as every byproduct is put to use. Even better, linen possesses a natural resistance to bacteria, microflora and mildew, making it a great choice for those with allergies.
Boost the health of your home with natural fibres
Linen has a reputation for being eco-friendly, and it’s well deserved. Flax is easy to grow without fertiliser or irrigation and it’s naturally resistant to diseases and insects, requiring little use of chemicals. (Compare this to cotton, which uses seven times more chemicals than linen.) Flax uses one-quarter the water that cotton does during processing and produces little waste, as every byproduct is put to use. Even better, linen possesses a natural resistance to bacteria, microflora and mildew, making it a great choice for those with allergies.
Boost the health of your home with natural fibres
Durability
If you’re looking for an upholstery fabric that will stand the test of time, it doesn’t get much better than linen: it’s the strongest of the plant fibres (approximately 30 per cent stronger than cotton). But just because it’s durable doesn’t mean it will stay looking new. Linen isn’t very stain-resistant and the fibres will weaken if exposed to direct sunlight. That’s why it may not be the best choice if your room is flooded with sun or your children and pets are on the messy side.
If you’re looking for an upholstery fabric that will stand the test of time, it doesn’t get much better than linen: it’s the strongest of the plant fibres (approximately 30 per cent stronger than cotton). But just because it’s durable doesn’t mean it will stay looking new. Linen isn’t very stain-resistant and the fibres will weaken if exposed to direct sunlight. That’s why it may not be the best choice if your room is flooded with sun or your children and pets are on the messy side.
Thread count
Some retailers brag about the high thread count of their linen, but they neglect to take into account the thickness of the yarn. Flax fibres are naturally thicker than those made from the cotton plant, which means fewer threads fit in a square centimetre. That’s why a high thread count doesn’t necessarily translate to better linen fabric. The important thing to remember is that a thick, densely woven upholstery fabric will hold up better than one that is thinner and-or loosely woven.
Some retailers brag about the high thread count of their linen, but they neglect to take into account the thickness of the yarn. Flax fibres are naturally thicker than those made from the cotton plant, which means fewer threads fit in a square centimetre. That’s why a high thread count doesn’t necessarily translate to better linen fabric. The important thing to remember is that a thick, densely woven upholstery fabric will hold up better than one that is thinner and-or loosely woven.
Look and feel
Linen feels cool and smooth, making it a popular upholstery choice for warmer seasons or climates. Unlike fabrics made from shorter fibres, such as cotton, the longer fibres of linen help it stay lint-free and avoid pilling. Now a word about wrinkles: flax fibre is not very elastic, so it doesn’t bounce back when bent, which results in those wrinkles so characteristic of linen. While many prefer the casual look of crumpled linen, don’t go with 100 per cent linen if you want a crisp, wrinkle-free look. Blending linen with other fibres can increase elasticity, reducing the propensity to wrinkle.
Linen feels cool and smooth, making it a popular upholstery choice for warmer seasons or climates. Unlike fabrics made from shorter fibres, such as cotton, the longer fibres of linen help it stay lint-free and avoid pilling. Now a word about wrinkles: flax fibre is not very elastic, so it doesn’t bounce back when bent, which results in those wrinkles so characteristic of linen. While many prefer the casual look of crumpled linen, don’t go with 100 per cent linen if you want a crisp, wrinkle-free look. Blending linen with other fibres can increase elasticity, reducing the propensity to wrinkle.
Colour and dyeing
Linen doesn’t take dye well, which explains why it’s usually found in its natural colours: off-white, beige and grey. Buying linen in its natural hue has an added bonus: the colours won’t fade easily. If you see pure white linen, know that its colour is the result of strong chemicals that aren’t very friendly to the environment.
Linen doesn’t take dye well, which explains why it’s usually found in its natural colours: off-white, beige and grey. Buying linen in its natural hue has an added bonus: the colours won’t fade easily. If you see pure white linen, know that its colour is the result of strong chemicals that aren’t very friendly to the environment.
Slubs
Another characteristic of linen is slubs, which are lumps or thicker spots in the yarn. Some people appreciate the look of slubbed fabric and consider it to be a natural and desirable result of the manufacturing process. While slubs are generally not considered defects, the best-quality fabrics will have a consistent yarn size and be relatively free of them.
Another characteristic of linen is slubs, which are lumps or thicker spots in the yarn. Some people appreciate the look of slubbed fabric and consider it to be a natural and desirable result of the manufacturing process. While slubs are generally not considered defects, the best-quality fabrics will have a consistent yarn size and be relatively free of them.
Care
Linen benefits from regular maintenance. As with all upholstery, you should vacuum it at least monthly so you don’t rub surface dirt into the fabric every time you sit down. Although linen doesn’t take dye well, it seems to hold on to stains. It’s also not the easiest fabric to clean, so the best advice is to follow the manufacturer’s instructions if you notice a mark. When in doubt, call a professional upholstery cleaner.
Linen benefits from regular maintenance. As with all upholstery, you should vacuum it at least monthly so you don’t rub surface dirt into the fabric every time you sit down. Although linen doesn’t take dye well, it seems to hold on to stains. It’s also not the easiest fabric to clean, so the best advice is to follow the manufacturer’s instructions if you notice a mark. When in doubt, call a professional upholstery cleaner.
Linen slipcovers
Pure linen slipcovers should be dry-cleaned to avoid shrinkage, though some blends may be washable. (Check those manufacturer instructions.) Even if your slipcovers are washable, it’s best to avoid bleach, as it will weaken the fibres and may change the colour. If bleachable white slipcovers are what you want, consider a heavy cotton fabric instead.
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Pure linen slipcovers should be dry-cleaned to avoid shrinkage, though some blends may be washable. (Check those manufacturer instructions.) Even if your slipcovers are washable, it’s best to avoid bleach, as it will weaken the fibres and may change the colour. If bleachable white slipcovers are what you want, consider a heavy cotton fabric instead.
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My absolute favorite fabric!
Linen is wonderful! I slipcovered a bedroom chair in a heavy natural linen, and I love it. Not for curtains, though, as I found out when I put while linen gauze curtains in a sunny bedroom. The sunlight ultimately damaged the fabric.
Robin have a look at the video that's linked in my post a bit further up from yours. It summarises the processing of linen
Blue flax though, is a wildflower native to California and, while it can be
grown for its seed and oil, you're right - it's not the same as the
plant as the one featured here