kim_stone194

Red Oak hardwoods-help

Kim Costo
5 years ago

We are redoing an old farm house that has red oak hardwoods. Husband wants to sand and apply linseed oil. How long does this last. I want to do the floors and never touch again. Need suggestions and advice. ALSO, on another note.. I want the rustic look in hardwoods. Since our floors are oak. What is the best way to get that distressed look? We both love the look of this floor below. Thanks!

Rustic Red Oak · More Info


Comments (17)

  • PRO
    Oak & Broad
    5 years ago

    Kim Stone, the the texture on the floors in the photo is called circle sawn. Linseed oil will need to be reapplied pretty often. Its not a polyurethane finish and will not last or protect as well. Several of the Euro oiled finishes are linseed oil based and many require the floor be re oiled every 2-3 years. I would suggest a matte polyurethane to give you that same look but a lot more protection.

    Kim Costo thanked Oak & Broad
  • SJ McCarthy
    5 years ago

    I suggest starting with a low-gloss satin finish in a HIGH END polyurethane ($180/gallon) with super high scratch resistance. Have your floors stained the way you want and then finish them with the toughest stuff you can find.

    A satin will start off (first 1-2 months) looking quite fresh (almost semi-gloss). Do NOT panic. Relax. This is normal. It will dull down to 'satin' before the third month is over. And then it will continue to DULL DOWN. By the time it is a few years old, it will be a low-gloss satin...almost matte.

    You will want to avoid matte finishes as they look HAZY in certain lighting situations (morning/evening lighting). This is very upsetting to many people. That's why I suggest a satin that will naturally dull down (aka. naturally look distressed) inside of a few years. And they will stay this dull until you have then refinished.

    There you go....simply apply a satin in a super high-end finish and life will take care of the "distressing" for you.

    Kim Costo thanked SJ McCarthy
  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    5 years ago

    Or you can put an angle grinder, scraper, awl, hammer, drill and torch (be sure to have a fire extinguisher on hand) to the floor before finishing it.

    Kim Costo thanked G & S Floor Service
  • PRO
    Oak & Broad
    5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    Kim - G&S is hopefully kidding :-D and just letting you know the steps some people go through to get that aged look. Dont forget the heavy chains BTW. Thats also a technique to get the dented look.

    Kim Costo thanked Oak & Broad
  • Kim Costo
    Original Author
    5 years ago

    Thank you all! Oak & Broad and G&S I will try the chains and hammer. Hopefully I can get the look we desire. Thank you your advice.

  • PRO
    WeShipFloors
    5 years ago

    I do not know of a way to reproduce circle mill trace in an existing floor. If you can figure that one out, let me know.

    Alan

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    5 years ago

    I wasn't kidding when I made the recommendation. Use a angle grinder with a low grit at low speed and move fast to replicate circular cuts. Awl for worm holes, scraper for over and under wood, also to smooth out the circular patterns along the joints, hammers for dings and torch for those darker boards and spots. You can add wire brushing for more surface texture.

    Kim Costo thanked G & S Floor Service
  • SJ McCarthy
    5 years ago

    G & S - your a genius. Now the FUN part...explaining how much that costs! I've heard of the SITE FINISHED distressing with CHAINS and hand scraping costing $25/sf - just for the labour!

    I've seen photos of this type of finish (not the point of the angle grinder...but pretty much everything else mentioned). It is OUTSTANDING! The owners of the $13M home were SUPER impressed with the work! Of course, they paid for it...but still.

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    5 years ago

    $10 psf just for wire brushing.

  • SJ McCarthy
    5 years ago

    Ahhhhh....just what I thought. It is stunning stuff if the budget is there! Thanks for sharing G&S.

  • PRO
    Daniels Floors
    5 years ago

    On site distressing can be done. It is pricey. Rather than linseed oil. I recommend Rubio Monocoat. It has a matte finish and is very durable. All finishes require touch ups. With Monocoat, you can do spot touch ups without refinishing the entire floor. There are pre-colors that can be used for contrasting grain color and effects.

    Kim Costo thanked Daniels Floors
  • Kim Costo
    Original Author
    5 years ago

    Daniels Floors...thank you! We have decided to just sand, distress ourselves, and then finish. What is the drying time w/ Rubio Monocoat? How many applications? I have never heard of it. We are in crunch time on our floors and need something we can do in 1 or 2 days. Thanks.


  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    5 years ago

    do some research w/the Rubio. I've heard it's on the difficult side w/a learning curve. Some people like, some hate it.

    if you search it here under Advice, you'll see previous posts.

    Kim Costo thanked Beth H. :
  • Kim Costo
    Original Author
    5 years ago

    Beth, I just posted another question regarding what product to use. I have seen so much advice out there. My main concern now is drying time bc I don't have much time left before we move in. I am leaning toward Bona Traffic now after reading so many negatives about Rubio. Thanks for your reply.

  • PRO
    BlackStone Kitchen & Bath
    5 years ago

    Kim. If it's an old house, I would recommend you test for lead in existing varnish before you contaminate your home. I would also recommend you use Bona Traffic vs. Rubio. Good luck

    Kim Costo thanked BlackStone Kitchen & Bath
  • PRO
    Daniels Floors
    5 years ago

    I recommended the Rubio as opposed to the linseed oil, for a safer alternative to an oil rubbed look. You do need a contractor with experience with this product. Rubio conducts training sessions and offers support to flooring contractors.

    Rubio Monocoat Training

    As for the Bona Traffic, that is a great finish, different appearance. You are headed in the right direction looking for a water based (or waterbourne) product. If you are going with a dark stain, I am going to steer you away from Bona. The Bona looks like skim milk when you pour it out. It actually lightens the color of the floor. We love it on natural oak for a European finish. For darker colors, we recommend Pall-x 98, two component finish. This finish has an amber finish and resembles an oil modified finish. These options are more expensive than the traditional oil modified finish, but the durability can't be beat. Duraseal also makes a good 2 component finish.

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