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Can you tell me who makes this couch in the photo?

5 years ago

Connor Living & Dining - Boston | New England · More Info

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Thayer Design Studio
5 years ago
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HELP: Small L-shaped kitchen with refuse chute on wall!
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Are you saying that cooking next to the chute would gross you out even if its covered? Andd to use it for its intended purpose? In the first picture, it looks like the stove is directly underneath the chute, but I can see in other pics that it is not. I think it is far enough away. If everything is bagged properly, it shouldn't be that bad. You will have to check on local code regarding having the stove next to the window. Code may make your decision for you. People usually just put shorter cabinets above that type of range hood. I would recommend doing so because you need all the storage you can get. The hood--being different from the bank of cabinets--will provide relief to the eye. With cabinets above, it'll still feel balanced. And, as for covering the chute, do you want to cover it and restrict access or do you still need to use it for its intended purpose and just want to camouflage it? To help the room feel pleasant, cheery, and light, I recommend using a glass tile. Even though it's applied to a wall, the translucency still shows and evokes a sense of the adjectives above. I think it would help keep things light. Consider a slightly higher toe-kick underneath the lower cabinets. It helps to create a lighter-footed feeling. You could also consider cabinets that have furniture style feet. for a more open feeling. Your kitchen seems like an ideal room to use modern, lacquered cabinets. I don't know if you like the super-modern look, but I think it could be nice. Maybe just for the uppers. Use a medium-to-light toned wood on the bottom. A limestone floor might be nice. Or you can do wood or laminate. You could go with dark or light. I think it's mostly about preference.
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Cement tile is very popular in my area now. My client is considering it for a bathroom. I am unlikely to recommend epoxy or any other coating. It would change the look and feel too much. I prefer to apply penetrant. I call it that, rather than "sealer," because it does not prevent leaks, or even absorption in porous tile, or grout. It protects calcium based cement and grout from reacting with acid, but it is not perfect and it needs to be reapplied periodically. Wine, salad dressing, lemon, and any tart food would react with cement I am hesitant to recommend cement tile for a bathroom. I am afraid of it as a kitchen floor. Sure it is a knock-out gorgeous material, but will caring for it make some clients wish they hadn't fallen in love? I would like to hear from home owners who have lived with it for a few years. Has anybody lived with it in another Morocco?
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The HouzzAU Queenslander club
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I LOVE OLD QUEENSLANDERS.....emphasis on O L D! What a sight, a tall Queenslander...having come into being because of the heat in this State and therefore on tall and not so tall piers...I LOVE these houses but with one exception...and probably because in those days ther were no such things as... LIFTS! Nobody thought of the older Queenslander human whose hips and knees are worn out from hard work on the land..or for the little kids and toddlers.....STAIRS, STAIRS and more STAIRS! Beautiful gracious staircases....but.... Recently a young enthusiastic couple built a magnificent looking replica old Queenslander right across from my place. I watched it go up...and so did the rest of the neighbourhood...well, not criticising the modern builder but I'd rather have a genuine old Queenslander put together with hammer and iron nails! STAIRS seemed to have been made into a feature. The land overlooks a waterway that is prone to flooding so the piers had to be quite high....and that meant more treads! I think that maybe the builders were unaware of the need for a landing every...is it eight? steps? The back steps are straight up the rear of the house...no landings....OOOFFF going to welcome your new neighbiurs! I would not build a replica Queenslander but if I couldn't help myself I'd install A LIFT and I would invent a feature for going up and down .for the children...and I'd get my inspiration from some of the great Theme Parks that have to comply to strict safety standards.....Then and only then would I build a replica Old Queenslander...But I'd prefer A REAL ONE! .It has been my experience that replicas do not have the strength of the enormous oldies. For example: Show me a replica Queenslander with iron cyclone bolts securing the floor of the house to the piers. Show me a replica Queenslander where every VJ board in the walls and ceilings is held to the next with hidden nails? Show me one where the framework is all tongue and groove each piece locked into the other.....that cannot be achieved anymore because timbers are not seasoned for between 30-50 years and such building methods would weaken the structural timbers used today...so said the builder who added a veranda to my old place. He took photographs of the joinery! I LOVE OLD QUEENSLANDERS...But I'd only buy a really old one and renovate it using old methods and as much old timber as possible...and I'd add a LIFT and a kids "upper and downer" if the steps were to be high. One thing above all would deter me from building one from scratch....the unavailability and the expense of genuinely old timber...if it could be sourced.. A replica would never match the longevity and the methods of construction of the old ones. Those times are gone! Those homes can never be repeated...only replicated and its not the same by any bash of the nail. You can't buy those nails anymore and its impossible to hire a crew as large as a swarm of ants to build an old Queenslander from scratch. We just do not build like that these days. Meaning no disrespect to the skilled modern day builder who does marvellous things for the modern day.....its impossible to build a genuine old Queenslander for many reasons. LOVE and ADMIRE and CHERISH the old Queenslander, BUY ONE if you can and restore it as genuinely as possible. We'll never see its like again from any perspective.
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Hi Fred, Thanks for the want of the precise measurements. The U shape area in my kitchen is 64" - 104 - 99" (left - centre - right). Height of the kitchen area is 107". The wall with the fridge has total length of 99" Fridge is 32" wide, 29" deep, 73" high (I bought this fridge on a good bargain but realized it was slightly oversized in this kitchen area, but got to live with it now) The wall beside the fridge is 23" deep I know some gap has to be left between this wall, the fridge and the wall mounted/countertop cabinets for ventilation I guess. So I'd say the cabinets on this wall will have a length of only 63"/64"? The microwave is 18.5 wide, 13" deep, 10.5" high The oven is 24" wide, 24" deep, 24" high. The wall next to the fridge which will have this feature cabinet 42" wide, 110" high which is next to the main door. I'm thinking the feature wall is kind of plain, but it covers up where the fridge is sticking out.
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